Moving right along....

Wetlands View from a Bluff near my Casita

As the winter progresses (it's been unusually cool this year), I continue to enjoy exploring Mal Pais, one entrance of which is just up the lane.  Here's a bit of color from a recent late-afternoon stroll there:

Cactus Bloom

Multi-hued plant in the crotch of a tree

A bit of autumn - in January

On January 15th I took a short trip to the town of Ihuatzio to see some Tarascan ruins - and began a new phase of photography.  As I walked from the village up to the ruins, I took my camera from my pants pocket to get a pic of the great array of stone walls dividing up the countryside.  Reaching with my finger for  the button for both shutter release and zoom control, I felt nothing - and saw that the button was missing!  Searched my pocket, the area (and later the casita) but couldn't find it.  Luckily I discovered that I could still operate the zoom and snap pictures with the aid of a small twig or a toothpick inserted into the hole where the button had been.  It's a slower and tedious process, but I'm so glad I can still use my camera!

Here's a shot of the impressive stone walls in Ihuatzio:

And here are some shots of the even more impressive ruins:

Two pyramids lie at the far end of a huge open plaza which is lined with high tiered stone causeways.

Here's a closer view of the pyramids.  Beyond the nearer pyramid's crumbling bump-out, which I believe was the site of a stairway, you can see a small section where the smooth stone facing of the pyramids has been restored.

From a nearby hill I caught a view of the pyramids with the huge statue of José María Morelos, which sits atop the island of Janitzio, rising up in the background:

And I took a short walk on a lovely wall-lined lane around the site.

Back down in the village I wandered the streets and ended up at the church.  Noticing that the door to the bell tower was open, I climbed up the winding stone staircase to wonderful view of the town and  Lake Patzcuaro:

I continue to enjoy hikes with the expat hiking group "Friends of Cerro Blanco".  Here are some of us walking through pleasant pine woods on the slopes of El Estribo:

On the 18th I led my new friends Carol, Kurt and Maria on a hike out to the petroglyphs behind Uricho.  After a chilly start, it was a beautiful day for a hike.

Kurt, Carol & Maria

On the way back we stopped to chat with a friendly caballero from Uricho:

On the afternoon of 19th I spent time watching hundreds of blackbirds (I believe) moving about among the cows in the wetlands.  Here's a still of the birds flying as a group:

To see a short video - a fascinating bit of  murmuration -  just click here:
https://youtu.be/Nii5MGyHnGE

Through the hiking group I met a couple more new hiking buddies,  Henriette and Basil. The trail I hiked with them on the 20th is also used for bicycle races. This sign that the racers put up  says "The Sky", which is what you see just before plunging down a steep hill.  I commented that it should say "Las Estrellas" (The Stars) because that's what you'll be seeing if you're not careful - and lucky - going down.

Farther along the trail, Henriette stopped to admire  a flowering bush:

After a delicious post-hike lunch at a seafood restaurant with Basil & Henriette, I stopped at La Surtidora and sipped a cafecito by the plaza and enjoyed this view of a street that borders the square:

And that cup of coffee keeps getting less expensive - because of the changes in the exchange rate.  Last year I got about 15 pesos for a dollar.   I now get 18.5!  Unfortunately, though, the strong dollar makes a lot of things more expensive for Mexicans.

It's getting further and further into the dry season and farmers continue to burn off their fields.  That unfortunately makes for lots of very smoky air pollution - but at least it provides some dramatic photos:

And the flames went higher.....

With my friend Frances I took my first moonlight walk in Mal Pais on the 21st.  Not to worry - we stayed mostly in the very open "entryway", where we could see quite well by the light of the moon.  Lovely.

The 22nd was a nice sunny day - though a bit hazy for good long-distance photos. I went along the road to San Bartolo, then out through the extensive farm fields.  I saw this cute bird  launch itself from a bush:

He did eventually spread his wings!

 To get to the outer fields, I carefully crossed this rickety little bridge:

In these fields, which lay beneath the waters of Lake Patzcuaro before the water receded, families from the nearby villages are allotted plots for growing crops:

A vermilion flycatcher in a field

View of Janitzio over a flowering crop.

I ended up in the village of San Pedro, where I visited the church:

Interior of the church. I liked the barrel-vault ceiling covered in wood slats.

On the 23rd I was down with a cold, so it was "Netflix and chill".  But at least I got to watch the rising of a golden moon that evening:

By the morning of the 26th I was feeling  well enough to take a combi into Patzcuaro and then walk out to the Men''s Breakfast in Tsurumutaro.  Along the way I passed this interesting 4-towered barn that I had been wanting to get a photo of:

And I was treated to a sighting of a bluebird!

Bluebird on a red wire.

 Later in the day I went back to Patzcuaro to do some chores. The road workers were about to finish paving this street with cobblestones - which they broke from larger rocks with hand tools!

On the 27th, after a morning hike on some new trails some friends told me about - and a tasty lunch of garlic octopus - I went to this lovely theater in the heart of Patzcuaro to see Star Wars - The Force Awakens. Nostalgic, exciting and fun. Paid $1.10 for my ticket - and watched it with 6 other people.

Left Wall

Right Wall

Ceiling

Stage

On the 28th, I introduced some hiking friends to the loop hike through Mal Pais.. They all seemed to enjoy it. Here's the good-looking group in front of the big gnarled oak at the end of the hike:

Maria, Carol, Lon and Kurt.

That afternoon, as I sat on my terrace, this fine feathered friend - a hooded oriole - brightened my afternoon:

I met up with the expat hiking group in Patzcuaro on the 30th and we carpooled to a nearby village for a hike.

Panel on a door I passed while walking into town

 Here's the group heading back to the cars after a nice loop through the woods:

After the morning hike, five of us went to the new restaurant El Milagrito for the brunch buffet. Delicious food, including the tastiest tamales I've ever eaten, with apple pie and coffee - and unlimited mimosas (grapefruit juice and wine) - for $8.25.  Yum!

The 31st was a nice Sunday morning for eating my pancake breakfast out on the terrace - a bit warmer than it's been lately.  And the views were gorgeous.

Foggy view over the lake

Pelicans and Egrets in a nearby pool

After breakfast it was time for an easy hike into Mal Pais to the natural volcanic rock tower.

Looking down on a canal, I could see egrets lined up like sentinels on the banks.

A turkey vulture perched on the rock tower, surveying the area.

Agave growing in the crotch of a live oak

Colorful bromeliad in a tree

I finally got to take a hike with my friend Charles on February 1st.  He and his partner Erwin accompanied me on the loop hike through Mal Pais.

We looked down on egrets in the wetlands.....

And up at a raptor in a treetop:

Erwin and Charles in Mal Pais

And that evening, after the hike, there was a glorious sunset:

Zirahuen is a beautiful blue lake south of Patzcuaro in the town of the same name. A friend found me a map of a trail used by mountain bikers to get there from Patzxcuaro. On the 3rd I headed out to see if I could find my way to the lake. I didn't make it - but I enjoyed a great hike anyway.

I headed out from the village of San Pedro. After crossing the railroad tracks (just before a very long freight train would have blocked my way), made my way uphill on a grassy lane and took this shot after crossing the road to Uruapan.

Made my way mostly uphill through the woods, mostly in the shade. Passed through a pine grove - a great spot to eat my lunch:

I think I was doing well making my way to the lake, though I did have to backtrack a couple of times. Eventually came to a locked gate where the trail entered an avocado grove and I had to turn back.  Met this guy on the way down and after chatting a bit I asked if I could take his picture:

 I enjoyed hiking back down on a sunny trail under an intensely blue sky:

And I even enjoyed the sight of Mount Trashmore (really the regional dump) with egrets lined up on its ridge top:

On the 5th I took a nice long hike with my friend Kurt.  We walked from Eronga up paved and dirt roads to the village of Yotatiro, then on up to Zarzamora and down the old dirt way back to Eronga - with lots of interesting conversation.

We took a peek into the little church in Yotatiro:

After reaching Zarzamora, we started back down on the old road to Eronga, and checked out the cows in a farmyard:

 On the gate to the farmyard sat (briefly) a beautiful slate-throated redstart:

(Photo by Kurt Andersen)

We enjoyed the many views along the way, like this one that includes "Los Cuates" - the twin volcanoes on the edge of Mal Pais -

as well as the simple star-like designs of thorns on an old cactus tree:

And Kurt took this nice photo of me - "the happy wanderer" - at the side of the road:

In the Patzcuaro market on the 5th I bought a bag of little limes at the market - 27 cents for 14 of them.  I guess I'll enjoy a few more rum & tonics while I'm here!

And speaking of the market, here are a a couple views of what's available there:

Booths selling mostly fruit...

and booths with mostly vegetables - all at wonderfully low prices.

Such variety - and bargains - to choose from.  My deal of the day on the 8th was 3 nice big avocados for 66 cents!

And that morning it had been a delight to get up, go out on the terrace and see about 100 white egrets shining bright in the morning sun:

About half of the egrets I could see at one glance.

I've shown you many views from my terrace and from my hikes.  But one of my favorite views is just a few feet from my bathroom window:

Ferns growing out of the huge retaining wall below Georgia's house

I'm down to my last couple of weeks here in Arócutin.  Lots of fun events are coming right up - so I'll have a bit more to post before I leave!

And here's a parting shot from my village:

Wetlands view from Arócutin.